Finding Anini: A Soul-Seeker’s Guide to Arunachal’s Last Frontier
- Hill Rovers
- 1 day ago
- 5 min read
Far into the distance from the terrace of my office, I can see the pristine hills of Arunachal Pradesh. Those hills are a part of the northern Dibrugarh skyline, standing tall like a great wall…a guardian protecting the fabled tea city of India from the unknown. And more often than not, I am drawn towards the mountains, wondering what mysteries lie beyond. Occasionally amidst the busy schedule of my office, I steal some time, preferably around dusk, to have a look at them.
And the moment I look at them, I am awestruck by the immense beauty and sheer majesty. I cannot but marvel at the view that is in the horizon with some soothing background music playing in my head: ululating tribesmen, beating drums, the distant rumble of cascading waterfalls, the sound of a brook bubbling through dense woods, the chirp of crickets, the hammering of woodpeckers, the songs sung by gibbons, the shrilly scream of the hawks, rumbling thunderstorms, rain and what not…I am immediately transported to a different world. A world where time does not exist, where you spend more of your time appreciating nature tourism in Northeast India instead of looking into your screens.
I do believe that I am a fortunate person- fortunate enough to be staying in this part of the world, surrounded by unparalled beauty around me, and fortunate enough to travel to the offbeat destinations in Arunachal Pradesh that hide behind that skyline. Anini is one such place, tucked in a little corner of Dibang Valley District in Northern Arunachal Pradesh
The Girl Named After a Valley
In an era of "bucket-list" tourism and 15-second reels, Anini stands as a stubborn, beautiful anomaly. Recently being acclaimed as the “best emerging adventure destination in India” by the Adventure Tour Operatiors Association of India (ATOAI), Dibang Valley in Arunachal Pradesh in general and Anini in particular has recently grabbed manny eyeballs. But this is not the first time that people have been captivated by the beauty of this tiny Himalayan Hamlet.
I came across this beautiful story of a lady named Anini, who came to visit Anini back in 2023. Yes, they both share the same name. How? Well, Anini’s father was an US Airforce Pilot and was posted in Anini during the Second World War. He was so captivated by the place’s beauty that he later named her daughter, Anini. Unfortunately, Anini’s father passed away in a plane crash, leaving the young Anini with only stories and her unique name as a connection to the place. In 2023, Anini, already quite old herself, came to visit Anini, the place after which she was named. Her connection with the mountains her father once flew over makes me realize that that some places don't just stay in our memories; they become part of our identity.
The Art of Slow Travel & The Seven Lakes
You cannot “do” Anini in a weekend. As a pioneer of slow travel in India, Anini rightfully deserves your time and attention. The road to Anini from Roing is an artery carved into the side of the Himalayas. Passing through the Mayudia Pass, you aren't just traveling; you are ascending through different worlds. The weather can change in a heartbeat. Mist might swallow the road, or a sudden waterfall might demand you stop and simply watch.
And once you’ve reached there you’ll realize that life here follows the sun and the seasons, not a digital clock. It is the mountains that decide if you’re ready to behold the beauty of the seven lakes as you embark on the legendary Seven Lakes Trek. Until the peaks deem you worthy, the turquoise waters remain hidden behind a thick, protective veil of fog.
But Anini’s beauty isn't just in its peaks, it’s in the sweetness of its soil. As you wander through the hamlet, you’ll find yourself in the heart of vibrant Kiwi and Persimmon gardens. Watching the sun filter through the kiwi vines- a fruit that has found a second home in these Himalayan foothills, is a masterclass in peace. Tasting a sun-ripened persimmon here, amidst the crisp mountain air, makes you realize that the valley doesn't just feed your soul; it offers a literal taste of paradise!
Travel Tips for the Soul-Seeker:
Arunachal Pradesh is a protected zone. If you are planning an Arunachal Pradesh tour itinerary, here is how to prepare:
To enter, you need an Inner Line Permit (ILP). For Indians, and Protected Area Permit, if you are not an Indian. You can easily apply for an e-ILP online or at the facilitation center in Mohanbari, Dibrugarh. Don't view this as "paperwork." Think of it as your formal invitation into a sacred space. Having your permit ready ensures that when you cross the bridge at Roing, you do so with a clear mind.
The road from Roing to Anini (approx. 235 km) is a living entity. Landslides or mist at Mayodia Pass can turn an 8-hour drive into a 12-hour adventure. So it is advisable to always keep a "buffer day" in your Dibang Valley travel plan. If the road is clear, use that day to sit by the Dri River. If the road is blocked, use it to share stories with a local shopkeeper. In Anini, a delay is never lost time. It is a hidden opportunity.
Avoid standard hotels; instead, choose Homestay in Anini. Life in an Idu Mishmi home revolves around the central hearth (meru). This is where the real spirit of the tribe is found.
Always seek permission before photographing people or their traditional altars.
If offered Apong (local rice beer) or smoked pork, accept it with both hands. It is a gesture of kinship.
Anini is pristine because it is remote. Dispose your plastic waste properly. Let the only thing you leave behind be a good reputation.
Even in summer, the nights at high altitudes are biting. Pack sturdy waterproof trekking boots—you’ll need them for the damp forest floors.
Carry a physical book or a journal. There is almost no mobile connectivity (except for intermittent BSNL/Airtel). Use this "forced" disconnect to reconnect with your own thoughts.
If you want to hear the drums and see the "ululating tribesmen" visit during the Reh Festival (Feb 1–3). It is the most important spiritual celebration for the Idu Mishmi. For those seeking the "Seven Lakes", the post-monsoon months offer the sharpest, most crystalline views of the Himalayas.
When you finally stand in the valley, don't just reach for your camera. Close your eyes, listen to the rumble of the waterfalls, feel the crisp Himalayan air brush against your skin, look at the ever-changing cloudscapes and probably just soak yourself in everything you sense around you. And then you’ll understand that you are standing in a place so beautiful, a man once named his child after it.
" I occasionally still look out at those hills from my office terrace in Dibrugarh. But now, I don't just see a skyline. I see the face of a woman named Anini finding her roots. I hear the drums of the Reh festival. I see a world where time stands still.
Don't just watch the horizon. Cross it.
About the Author
Aditya Prasad Chakravorty serves as a Postal Assistant at Dibrugarh, where he acts as a silent link in the chain of human connection. When he isn’t navigating the world of letters and logistics, he is an avid photographer, content creator, and vlogger dedicated to capturing the soul of Northeast India.
From his office terrace in Dibrugarh, Aditya has spent years watching the Arunachal skyline, eventually trading his view for the lens of his camera to document the "unknown" beyond the hills. Through his storytelling and visual craft, he seeks to bridge the gap between our busy digital lives and the timeless majesty of places like Anini. A frequent collaborator with Hill Rovers, Aditya’s work is driven by a simple philosophy: don't just watch the horizon—cross it and tell its story.
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